Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
